Chariot Of The Damned Update: July 19 2013
Hey guys, It's good to be updating after being away for so long and I'm seeing a lot of rumors that I've given up, and the car is never going to happen.
Let's just bust that myth right now: I haven't given up. The Chariot of the Damned is still going full satan-sled.
Don't believe me? Still convinced I faked my own death? Well grease up those mousepads, because we got sum scrollin' to do..
The are two things I've learned from this project. One is that getting to where you want to be takes preparation. What I've also learned is that being patient will nine times out of ten, gets things done faster in the long-term. Whenever I rush or I'm under-prepared, I make mistakes that could have been avoided if I slowed down to double-check my work. Making mistakes now while building the engine leads to pulling it out of the car to fix problems later. That's no fun for me because there are a lot of tires out there that deserve to be shredded, and that doesn't get accomplished with the engine out of the car.
Before any tire shredding happens though, the 7M needed to come out which is where we left off last time:
The 7M that powered this car for years didn't come out willingly. After 23 years of salty sea air a lot of bolts were rusted. I was really eager to remove the old engine so I ended up going balls-out and dismantling everything in the engine's way.
Once the 7M was out, I cannibalized all the compatible parts I could and decided to play CSI: Rod Knock'd Edition.
... and let me warn viewers, the following images may be disturbing:
From what I can tell, oil starvation/loss of viscosity/the wrath of god turned out to be what murder-melted piston number six's rod bearing, causing the knock and fatal heart attack. Even if I replaced the bearings to try and keep it alive, the crank was already damaged. When I decided to keep the car and go balls out, I knew rebuilding the 7M wouldn't be enough.
Rest in peace 7MGTE.
7M, you were a fickle, temperamental old fuck that ran too rich and stalled almost killing me on more than one occasion. None of that really matters though because I'll always be grateful for the burnouts, the evil sound you made when I stomped on the pedal, and most of all I'll remember the time we scared that group of teenagers totally shitless by creeping up on them in stealth mode and chirping the tires.
Thanks for the memories 7M.
As sad as it was to see the 7M exorcised, it needed to go because for merciless apocalypse-level tire mutilation, it's 2J or the highway.
I started reading and re-reading the 2JZGTE and supra mk3/4 repair manuals. I searched forums for tutorials and watched videos of people actually doing the repairs. To keep myself motivated studying, I pretended the 2J was my enemy. I was preparing my mind for a battle where if I won, I would be rewarded with burnouts.
Juicy, juicy burnouts...
The first problem is the mk3 Supra requires a rear oil pan, where the Aristo has the opposite. Step one was removing the crank pulley. Since I'm trying to spend money on performance parts instead of tools, I saved myself buying the special crank bolt breaker bar and pulley remover.
A piece of metal, some chain, and bolts worked fine. All I had to do was alternate tightening the two small bolts with un-tightening the crank bolt, making the pulley pull itself.
It took a long time.
....... a really long time.
While I swapped the upper and lower oil sump, I took the chance to replace the oil pump and seals with new factory parts.
This is the new rear sump before being bolted onto the bottom of the block.
The Supra's subframe and steering rack will now sit right in front of the oil pan, directly below and behind the crank pulley. When I chose the oil to fill that pan, I noticed it had probably the best sounding name for an oil: Motul 300V Chrono.
It sounds like the name of a wine combined with a badass number, and then they just stuck chrono on the end because chrono is a cool word.
Not only does it sound cool but it can really take a beating which is a vital feature if you ship things with UPS. It also lubricates the engine or whatever.
I replaced the serpentine belt and replaced the timing belt with one from Greddy. I've seen a lot of people on forums write posts saying Greddy and HKS actually source their belts from Gates and then re-brand them as their own charging a slightly higher price. I have no idea if this is true. Jury is still out.
After re-installing all the pulleys and belts, the next project was the transmission.
The Chariot Of The Damned's R154 transmission needed its bellhousing swapped in order to get the R transmission bolted to the new engine.
When the pressure plate came away from the transmission I noticed that the clip holding the clutch release fork needed replacing.
The Centerforce dual friction clutch had a gnarly layer of dust and rust, so after taking it out I cleaned it and sprayed it down with some left-over high heat ceramic lime green.
*~~~lime green 4 da hataz~~~*
11.5lb flywheel for to making the revs go faster-er.
I bolted the clutch to the flywheel with new ARP hardware and put the1JZ bellhousing on the R154.
All that work and nobody's even going to see it! Oh well, at least you and I know it looks good in there.
Once the clutch slave cylinder was bolted on I filled the transmission through the top of the shifter housing with a fresh jug of MT-90 from Redline.
The new engine came out of an Aristo from Japan, which meant the harness needed modifying.
I sent the OEM 2jzgte harness Fiend Performance with some COTD and Death Squad stickers...
While the harness was away, I had two wiring problems to solve on my own.
The first problem was this O2 sensor's pigtail that had been ripped off at some point. I hardwired it into the body harness with some solder. Easy fix.
The second job was changing the the alternator's round black plug to the new grey oval plug. Another easy fix.
When I got the harness back a few months later it looked a hell of a lot better than when it left!
No more missing pigtails, frayed wires or grimy electrical tape! Anyone who owns a car older than 15 years knows that the sticky part of the tape turns into slime. Fucking yuck.
Apart from not being made of slime, there were built-in connectors to make the Speed For Sale boost cut controller plug and play. All of this made me pumped to get the harness installed, even though it was the middle of winter, and the temperature in the shed was -20 to -30 degrees (-4 to -22 Fahrenheit). This as it turns out, is a really stupid idea and I'll explain why with a really stupid joke:
Question: How cold does it get in Canada?
Answer: So cold that the wiring harness's plastic plug for the water temperature sensor shatters in your hand like glass.
Nicholas Cage really seems flat out insane. Oh, By the way how small are your hands?
....because there is no fucking way a human adult's hand is fitting in there.
I ended up asking my friend Taylor to user her smaller (yet creepily strong) hands to connect the hard to reach plugs. She and the 2JZ had a bit of a moment.
The 1990's MK3 firewall won't fit the 2j's turbos so next up was beating the living fuck out of the firewall to make room for the twins.
A sledge hammer wasn't in the budget so an XL can of 'fuck you, car' and a big metal wedge would have to do.
Let this be a lesson to everyone: there is nothing that can't be fixed with a sharp heavy chunk of metal shaped like a wedge.
I bought a bulk supply of these 3M abrasive wheels and they saved me a lot of time. They rip through anything that even thinks about attaching itself to metal. When the firewall was beaten enough, I coated it in primer.
Big wedge of metal: 1
After I painted the firewall matte black, I cut a path for the intercooler piping routing through the OEM battery location into the engine's throttle body.
The OEM location for the battery won't work anymore, so I needed a way to move it into the cabin and keep it from flying into the back of my head at stop lights:
Auto World sourced this Taylor Vertex battery box kit on short notice. It's vented to keep me from breathing in sweet battery fumes. It's compatible with regular, non-dry cell batteries and complies with the NHRA's anti-fun rules.
The first intercooler I bought was a no-name chinese manufactured core that I took a chance on when buying. I knew it wouldn't be on par with name brand models but I thought it would be passable quality because it was retailed by a company I had bought parts from before.
After inspecting it closely, I didn't feel it was up to the quality I wanted and decided to go with a Mishimoto IC instead.
Since the intercooler piping is a 3" diameter the stock charge pipe hole on the passenger side needed to be widened. I know most people go with 2.5" piping to help the turbos spool sooner, but with my long-term horsepower goal being in the mid six hundreds buying and installing the 3" piping now gives me some head room for future upgrades.
As for not-so-future upgrades, I already have this top feed fuel rail that incorporates the 550 injectors used in the 7M-GTE. What I don't have is a standalone ECU or piggyback to make it work properly.
Another upgrade is this Powered by Max Hydro e-brake I secretly bought awhile ago.. I constantly day dream about using this.
This brake master cylinder brace is supposed to stop your firewall from flexing when stomping on the break pedal. I couldn't feel a difference, but then again, I couldn't really drive the car much to test it.
With all the mandatory maintenance done, the 2J was ready to fill the COTD's ugly engine shaped hole.
After a few trial runs to make sure things lined up, the engine and transmission managed to squeeze down into the engine bay with a little engine hoist kung fu. It felt like I waited forever to see the COTD with the new engine installed and I almost had to pinch myself to see if I was dreaming.
I got to work on the motor as soon as it was in, connecting the wiring harness, power steering, cooling, and making final changes to the intercooler piping.
The dump pipe from the turbo met the intercooler inlet piping at a weird angle...
...so I used a hump hose and silicone elbow to give the engine and IC piping the wiggle room it needed to fit together. The extra play will also stop engine movement from bending the piping.
There was a left-over piece of pipe and I used it to make a longer air intake that sits closer to the front of the engine bay. It won't make much difference in performance because either way it's just sucking in hot air trapped directly above the turbos. It does on the other hand add at least half of a cool point, and those add up.
Seeing the new engine in the car makes the days and nights I spent working in that shed breathing paint fumes seem worth it.
Hold on, what year is it? How far did you just scroll reading this entire post? Your eyes probably hurt. You definitely earned a break while I work hard on writing the next update coming out Tuesday. It's all about the wiring, the new remote power steering cooler anddddddd..
anndddd...um, damn what was it....the uhhh....there's something I'm forgetting here. Anyway I'll remember what it was.
It's the weekend so you just chill, you earned it.
Oh right... I remember.
Next update is all about those round metal things we all go ape shit for...